If Saturday was a day of sudden weather contrasts of sun-wind-cold-hot-rain, then Sunday morning was all about this dull and monotonous rain coming down on us. Not a pleasant weather for a day outside visiting nature’s wonders and doing some serious hiking, but we’ve persevered and never have wavered, but for a short time when we’ve been desperately looking for a place to get some coffee and something warm to eat while still back in the town of Pasvalys where we’ve camped for the night. When you live in a big city you get used to the fact that at any time of the week or day you can find some open establishment which serves drinks and food. Alas it seems this is not the case with the small towns, and instead of getting a cup of coffee with some decent breakfast we had to drive out of town to the nearest gas station with a shop to get a desired coffee and some micro-waved but at least hot burgers. With our bellies finally stuffed and caffeine hunger suppressed, we got moving to our first destination of the day.
On Sunday’s list was Biržai regional park and its many sinkholes which also got a bonus stop at Smardone Spring which was not originally planned, but since I got a little bit lost and ended up over there why not take a chance especially since I hear it is good for one’s health or something 😉
Every single eatery, restaurant, cafe in Pasvalys was closed for the Sunday. Even though some opening hours signs said they should be working
at the bottom of one of the best known sinkhole – the Cow’s Cave
the many layers of this material lay underground in this norther part of Lithuania, and whenever it gets washed a sinkhole appears in that place, some times right under one’s house
the Smardone Spring has some secrets, and I’ve almost missed these 🙂
I’ve read that spring’s water has some healing qualities, so even though the water was ice cold, I’ve got in for a health boosting run. Not so sure about health, but the cold water energised me pretty much to the core of my bones 😀
The second major stop on the list was in Pašiliai near Panevėžys, where a herd of bison can be observed. Luckily for us by the time we’ve got there the weather improved greatly and with the Sun out it was getting quite warm – just what we’ve needed after a really wet first half of the day. Unluckily, bison weren’t interested in us, so all we could do was tale a hike on a training trail in the forest and then observe bison graze from afar.
Are these cows? Nah, just some rather shy bison who did not want to come closer for a better shot
Anyway, I liked the place very much, and am definitely coming back to try and see those beast up close the next time. Maybe I’ll get more lucky then.
Talking of luck, just like Smardone Spring was a bonus, so were a guerrilla bunker remains near the bison ranch. Being a historian by education sometimes still kicks in and I just had to make a pit-stop and take a look.
inside of the almost collapsed guerrilla bunker
bunker from the outside
Some Wonderland 
I wonder if, during your travels, you happened upon a place called Smardonka.
I imagine it is located on or around the Smardone spring/river.
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Is it some village?
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Yes, indeed, but I cannot locate it on any map.
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Unfortunately, I haven’t heard of a village bearing this name. Maybe you’ve got the name wrong in the first place?
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It was listed as the birthplace of my father and his siblings in 1903, 1895 and 1910.
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since during that time Lithuania was under Russian Empire rule, some toponyms in official documents were Russificated, or their respective names might have been changed since then.
I actually found on Wikipedia that Likėnai, which a village near that spring, was until 1940s called both Smardonė or Lukėnai. So it’s highly probable that your Smardonka (-onka is raelly Russian sounding) is Likėnai of nowadays
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I basically suspected that something like this may be the case, that after independence- post WW1- many of the russified names were dropped or went into disuse. You have at least given me a name of a location from which I can start and possibly be able to come to a definite conclusion. I also was told it was in the Birzai area which Lukenai is. I thank you very much and will keep at it. I don’t want to consider traveling there unless I’m sure.
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Good luck with your search 🙂
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I am trying to contact Marvin Schneider because his mention of Smardonka matches my family tree; I’d like to follow up! thanks, Gail
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